Rebane's Ruminations
November 2026
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  • Jo Ann Rebane

    More cultural notes from Estonia.  First, it must be said that WiFi connectivity, although promised Cimg6417 at our hotel in Pärnu, was slow to non-functional.  And here at the Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island the excellent wireless connection we had initially was knocked out by yesterday’s mid-day thunder, lightning, and hail storm (George said it fried their router’s network card).  While we dinned in the Seahouse Restaurant the storm raged outside.  We walked back to our room under clearing skies and the promise of sunshine.  Please visit the hotels’ website to get an idea of the splendor of this place called Estonia’s finest hotel and spa.  Truly, our arrival timing was fortunate.  We were the only guests lastCimg6410 night and this morning, so they kindly upgraded us from the simplest “double” I’d reserved, to a fabulous two story suite in the Carriage House (two left hand windows on the second floor are ours).  It looks just like the picture on the website! This morning the entire dining room was all ours for a private breakfast with very attentive service and beautiful music in the background – they even lit all the candles in the dining room and on the patio for us. 

    Continuing with cultural notes:

    • Tidy road sides.  We learned from a store clerk (studying 20th century wars) that two months ago Cimg6412 (May) 50,000 Estonians turned out across the land to pick up trash in public areas and along road sides.  That’s one more explanation for the pristine countryside we see.
    • Holidays and businesses.  June 23rd and 24th are both national holidays in Estonia.  We’ve encountered more “closed for the holiday” signs in shops and restaurants than you’d ever see in Nevada City or Sacramento or San Francisco.  In Tartu, merchants aren’t prepared for tourists and tourists don’t come… Is this a chicken and egg problem?  Thank goodness our hotel feels a responsibility to its guests and maintains a first class restaurant.
    • Public restrooms.  I’m pleasantly surprised to find restrooms (WC) widely available, free, clean and stocked with toilet paper, soap and paper towels.  What a relief!
    • Wildlife sighting.  I saw a mini deer (not a fawn but a small scale deer) today standing at the interface where the forest meets the road’s shoulder.  We were driving from Pärnu to the ferry terminal at Virtsu on a secondary road.  That was a real surprise and treat.

  • George Rebane

    Estonian Health Care.  In Viljandi Jo Ann and I were surprised to learn that our friend Bruno, who is a surgeon at the large provincial hospital (pictured on the horizon), is paid less than we pay our yard Cimg6087and garden help in Nevada County.  The country has a socialized health care system of the kind that our progressive politicians are trying to put in place.  Estonia, on the other hand, is currently seeking other solutions.

    The system has the usual problems of long wait periods for certain kinds of treatments, difficulty of referral to specialists, and so on.  And the situation is getting worse because Estonia trains excellent physicians (e.g. here at the University of Tartu) who are much in demand all over the world where they can enjoy much higher wages relative to their cost of living.  Therefore, many of them emigrate and consequently leave the country with marginal staffing levels at hospitals and clinics.

    Also the good Dr. Bruno and many others are forced to go to other countries to get timely medical care, especially for those involving procedures that the state declares to be discretionary.  It’s always puzzled me how these bureaucrats know what I consider critical and/or necessary to my quality of life.  They just sit there at a distance and tell the population what it really needs, and what it doesn’t need – amazing!

    Estonian national health insurance adds an employer paid 13% burden to each worker’s base pay.  Additionally, each worker pays a 26% flat tax deducted from his paycheck that will be stepped down to 20% in about four years.

    It will be interesting to see what these very practical people come up with as they seek to fix their healthcare system (a good summary of which is found here).  The respected think tank Cato Institute studies American healthcare as one of its main public policy research areas.  They have some information about healthcare solutions here that you don’t see on the evening news.  Sometimes it feels that in many areas we in the US are following a trail littered with abandoned and derelict public policies picking and choosing among the worst as we mindlessly mumble the new mantra ‘change’.

    Tomorrow we leave Tartu and drive across southern Estonia to the beach resort city of Pärnu.

  • Jo Ann Rebane

    Some cultural observations from Estonia:

    • The Estonian people are physically beautiful, especially those in the big cities of Tallinn, Viljandi and Tartu.
    • Service staff (hotel front desk, wait staff, store clerks) seem to have a aloof, couldn’t care less attitude.  Friendly, helpful personnel are the exception.  We’ve had particularly helpful young people manning the front desk here in Tartu.  They are university students eager to speak English.
    • People are strictly formal with newcomers, taking time to assess intent.
    • There’s affluence here.  We see Jeeps, Toyota land cruisers and families in minivans.
    Cimg6239 • On weekday mornings and evenings people walk with a sense of purpose, briskly headed to train, bus and job.
    • Evenings we see people carrying cut flowers surrounded by a cone of brown paper and wonder who will get the flowers.
    • In Tallinn we saw very few babies, so few that we began to count them. We counted on average ten a day in a city of 400,000 which seems very low.  In Viljandi, population 20,000 and located in the center of the country, babies and mothers were everywhere so we abandoned counting strollers and buggies.
    • It’s rare to see a police car – maybe 3 a day, total.
    • These people, the youth in particular, haven’t heard or don’t believe that smoking causes cancer.  Almost all smoke.
    • The Otepää “alpine” resort area we visited reminded me of the German or Swiss alps except many fewer people have trod the paths, dropped their bottle caps, and snuffed out cigarette butts.  Therefore that place seemed fresher.  It’s also less crowded.  Less impact from fewer people.  Just wait!
    • In the countryside the dominant color is green.  Green rye and turnip fields, green forests, green weeds.  It’s no wonder country housewives prefer bright red flowers in their gardens.
    Cimg6261 • There’s a bus stop about every two kilometers.  Sometimes it’s just a wide spot in the road marked by a signpost.  Other bus stops include a shelter of various designs with roof and benches.
    • Wood piles.  Wood is widely used for heating, probably year round.  Therefore each dwelling, including apartment blocks have huge stacks of firewood.  We have seen firewood stacked against a building, in free standing rows, covered and uncovered, massed in multiple rows, and the most interesting – in the shape of a stout cylinder.
    • Field stones.  Glaciation tumbled boulders across the land and deposited them everywhere.  The smooth boulders which are too big to move have been left in fields and plowed around.  Smaller stones are dug up and moved to the edge of the field and piled up there.  In Otepää and in eastern Estonia near Lake Peipsi the stones have been arranged into low walls and to form planted garden mounds.
    • Old people.  We were told that it’s cheapest for them to live in very rural villages.  You don’t see many really old people in the cities but it is common to see an old woman shuffle across a country lane oblivious to the occasional automobile.

  • George Rebane

    Today was another one of those days which makes you think whether you took the wrong turn somewhere and wound up in a travelogue film.  We took a trip down to Otepää (unpronounceable by tongues born and bred in the US), a resort and winter sports training community in southeast Estonia about 30 miles from Tartu.  The country here, now a bit more hilly, continues to be what one can only call Disneyesque – every scene is sculpted to perfection, we have yet to see our first piece of trash *anywhere*.
    Cimg6166
    Before going to bed last night, a squall passed over Tartu and in its waning trail left a complete double rainbow.  I had to take a picture of it through the rain covered skylight window in our hotel room.  Note that the brighter rainbow strongly demarks the regions of light and dark sky as if they were painted that way on purpose – they were.

    Cimg6172
    We headed south toward Otepää along what have now become typical Estonian highways – Jo Ann says she is getting a bit jaded by it all and wants to see something out of order.  For those of you having been in New Zealand or the German Alps, this is the closest to which I can compare this land.

    Cimg6216
    We stopped in Otepää for directions to Pühajärv (Holy Lake, equally unpronouncable) that was also visited and consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1992.  This beautiful lake is the jewel of the region and has two swimming beaches, an eight-mile-long paved and wide hiking/training trail that circumnavigates the 2.5 mile long lake.

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  • George Rebane

    We arrived in Tartu – Estonia’s university city – early this afternoon after a short 40-mile drive from Viljandi that passed by Võrtsjärv, Estonia’s largest lake.  Again, it was a beautiful drive along a countryside where every community has assembled the makings of the annual and traditional very large ‘John’s Day’ bonfire.  This is the summer solstice weekend which in 2008 gives the Estonians a four-day period of merrymaking and we can already hear groups of young men belting out traditional and not-so-traditional songs in the big town square in front of Tartu’s impressive city hall – a rendition of the Beatles’ ‘Yellow Submarine’ just ended.

    We settled into the hotel and then got directions to go on another discovery trek, this time to find the location of where a well-known and oft-described 1936 photo of my uncle Ralph and his girlfriend.  We found the location, but that’s another story.  On the way there we stopped for a picnic lunch at a park across the small lake that separated us from our destination.  Seeking a place to sit down next to the lake we ran into the abomination of a war memorial pictured below.

    Cimg6126 Carved in stone are commemorative lies in both Russian and Estonian –

    “1941 Great Patriotic War 1945 – Our defenders and liberators, the sons of all the  peoples of the USSR are gratefully remembered forever by (the people of) Tartu.”

    Such monuments are a blight on the Estonian countryside and a reminder of a wound that has little chance of healing.  Estonians who witnessed and lived through the horrors of Soviet occupation would tear down such monuments in a heartbeat.  However, the Russian ethnic minority would then riot as they did last year when such a monument in the center of Tallinn was only moved to a less prominent place.  This incident launched the first cyber attack by one nation against another when denial-of-service messages from Russia flooded the Estonian internet servers and sites.  With the help of a multi-national team that included US experts, the attack was thwarted and now Estonia is the site of a new institution in which such tactics of future IT wars are studied.

    (more…)

  • Jo Ann Rebane

    This is a land where we are very comfortable.  Not because we have our very own language expert and native Estonian speaker along (the language is very hard for the foreigner to pronounce, much Cimg6022 Cimg6023 less read).  We’re comfortable because the countryside is tidy and homes well tended.  The roads are good and the cities are easy to navigate once the traveler has a good map in hand. 

    These Estonians are a strikingly beautiful people, especially the young.  They are overwhelmingly tallish, thin, blond and beautiful.  Every other 20-30 year old is simply gorgeous.  One can hardly take your eyes off of the toddlers and their mothers.  Estonians dress in that international style, indistinguishable as to nationality.  And that’s what’s so confusing.  We’re in a wonderland of attractive people.  How can it be?  Did the homely ones emigrate or did the Soviets send them all to Siberia?

    Cimg6037 Cimg6071  Cimg6018 Cimg6039

    Cimg5861_2

  • George Rebane

    Cimg5947Yesterday morning we left a rainy Tallinn and drove south toward my birthplace Viljandi.  The country outside of the capital continues the style, wealth, and mood of the capital – the highways, fields, and forests are modern, well-signed, and as neat as a pin.  Estonia is, perhaps, the only country in history to refuse US aid after liberation – they didn’t want to become dependent on a very addictive teat.  The land now compares favorably with Germany and New Zealand, places where people take pride in where they live.  The only reminders of a tragic past are the Soviet built factories, processing plants, and workers’ apartments that startle the eye when encountered – the products of socialism resemble pieces of crap no matter where you encounter them.  (Witness ‘the projects’ of Cimg5912 government housing in our own fair land.)

    Before reaching Viljandi, we stopped to discover and visit important places in the Rebane family history that were located a few miles off the main highway.  Again, the country roads are in meticulous condition as are the fields and villages off the beaten path.  We saw the community of my maternal grandparents who operated the local windmill that ground the local grain before WW2.  Lots of pictures and tromping around old churchyards.

    Then we found the graves of my paternal grandparents – I was named Jüri Rebane after my paternal grandfather (how I got to be George is a long story).  This involved a search through two grave Cimg5974 yards required some serious time wandering through weeds and broken masonry crosses.  Tending Christian graves was frowned upon during the occupation and things do go to seed after sixty years in a country as lush and green as this.

    In the late afternoon we finally pulled into Viljandi, a community of about 20,000 which is the capital of the Viljandimaa province.  Jo Ann had booked us in the Grand Hotel which was completed in 1938 and in which my mom worked after I was born.  There she met her lifelong friend Rita who became part of our family as we escaped to Germany in 1944 and was with us when the war ended in 1945 – she emigrated to Canada and lives there now.  We have had a picture of them both at a 1941 employees’ luncheon in the hotel, and last night we confirmed that the picture was taken in the existing main dining room of the establishment.

    (more…)

  • George Rebane

    We landed in Tallinn, Estonia about noon today after a short flight up from Frankfurt, Germany on Estonian Air (Boeing 737).  This completes a circuit I started in 1944.  The perfect hosts Hans and Cimg57701 Gitta had breakfast ready for us at 630am, and then drove us to the airport on Sunday morning traffic-free streets and autobahns.  We said temporary good-byes since we will see them again before we come home.

    Cimg57432 (Yesterday our hosts organized a perfect Teutonic tourist terror tour of Frankfurt.  I didn’t know it was possible to see so much on trams rides interspersed with forced marches led and paced by Gitta.  At times I thought that Peter would pop his newly emplaced stent, at other times I thought I could use one.   Here we – l to r, Helga, Gitta looking at camera, Hans, Fatso, Jo Ann – are smiling in front of the doors of the old city hall where Gitta and Hans were married over forty years ago.  Don’t believe your lying eyes; inside I am trying to think of the German equivalent of 911 on my cell phone.  Hans at 66 still plays soccer and Gitta was a Wehrmacht drill sergeant in a previous life 😉  In sum, it was a wonderful day.)

    Estonia seems to live up to its press as a modern very western European country that just happens to be located in northeastern Europe.  Having already entered the EU through Germany, we didn’t need to go through passport or customs when we arrived since Estonia is both a member of the EU and NATO (with troops in the mid-east conflicts).  It was as easy as flying from Sacramento to Seattle.

    But before starting the Estonia log, I have to close out last night in Germany.  Another couple whom we have known for some time – Manfred and Irmgard – came for the BBQ dinner and talk.  For the topic of the evening Hans asked me to pose my question about the EU’s lack of a military to the entire group.  The answer(s) that came back were both surprising and disturbing.

    Here’s the short form.  What is the EU doing to build up the ability to project force so that it can defend its interests around the world including eastern Europe since the US – especially with a likely new and left-wing Executive and Congress – promises to begin reducing our military involvements, commitments, and capabilities?  Detail – the EU economy is now the biggest in the world, and many powers (Russia, Islam, and China) are looking forward to taking advantage of the EU as the US tires of being the champion of western civilization while having to pay for its own guns, bullets, and body bags.

    (more…)

  • George Rebane

    We arrived in Frankfurt am Main yesterday, descending through a cloud filled sky that sprinkled the countryside with brief showers.  This reminded me of the exact scenes I saw 45 years ago as a Cimg5671 young second lieutenant arriving in Germany for my first duty station after Artillery School.  That eight-hour flight had been on a CL-44 turboprop run by Varig Airlines under contract to the Dept of Defense, and full of military personnel and dependents with young children.  I was blessed with a little screamer about six months old in the seat behind me – that kid must have held the Leather Lungs of 1963 title.

    On yesterday’s flight Jo Ann and I were on an American Airlines 767 in business class – what a difference.  We breezed through passport and customs and were met by our longtime friends Hans and Gitta.  After lots of hugs and frenzied conversation where everyone wanted to ask all questions all at once, we walked about three miles to the airport’s parking structure where their van was waiting.  Frankfurt is the economic center of the EU and the commercial hub of all Europe with an enormous airport to match.

    (more…)

  • George Rebane

    Tomorrow we leave on a trip that has been anticipated for about fifty years and has been in various stages of planning for about twenty-five years.  I am returning to Estonia, the little Baltic country where Estonia_sm_20081I was born, which we left as refugees in the spring of 1944 during the depth of World War II, and have not seen since then.  Jo Ann’s planning for the trip competes favorably with Eisenhower’s effort for D-Day.  We will fly to Germany and stay with dear friends we have also known for about fifty years – Jo Ann first stayed with their family as an exchange student, and then they became our family away from home when we were in the Army and I was stationed in Germany.  From there we fly to Tallinn, rent a car, and begin an odyssey of discovery guided by old family photos and documents that survived the war and have served as the link to my roots all these decades.  I think I still speak the language – we shall see.

    Depending on the ease of connectivity, I will try to post some reflections and pictures from the old sod.

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